Subscribe RSSThe Wheeling Gourmet by Nicolas Steenhout
Recipes, cooking lessons, tips, tricks, food blog, and more.
Recipes, cooking lessons, tips, tricks, food blog, and more.
23 September 2008
Recently, a friend and I went for dinner at the Matterhorn restaurant in Wellington. We had been looking forward to this evening for several weeks. As we are not located in Wellington, this was a special trip for us. The evening was enjoyable, despite several hiccups. The food was good, and the presentation excellent. The wines were very good. The accessibility was, sadly, far less than stellar.
Located at 108 Cuba Street, the Matterhorn is wedged between two shops on a pedestrian mall. Don't expect a wide facade, the restaurant itself is reached through a long (and dark) corridor. Had we not know for sure that it was opened, it would have been easy to think it was closed! The restaurant's website (in Flash, may not work for everyone, some browsers are having problems getting to it) offers the food menu and wine lists (downloadable as PDFs only). It also talks about the history of the place.
The Matterhorn is a restaurant & tapas bar open seven days a week. It won the 2008 Supreme Winner as well as Best Casual Restaurant awards from Cuisine NZ Restaurant of the Year.
The menu is quite interesting and offers a wide selection of trendy dishes. Our waiter told us about the freshness of all ingredients, which is reassuring, but should go without say in a restaurant of that caliber!
Just after we received the menus, we were given one slice of sourdough bread each, with a small container of butter. The bread was very good (especially since we don't have regular access to really decent bread where we live). I could have eaten more than one slice though!
My partner selected a half dozen oysters on the half shell to start. I picked a terrine of wild rabbit to accompany her. We both selected the same main dish: Venison. Neither of us ordered desert, opting instead for a glass of Porto.
The wine list is long and impressive. It offers variety with wines from most major wine producing areas of the world. Many choices offered by the glass. This great selection is both an advantage and a disadvantage - It is excellent to have such choice, yet unless you are an expert on all the world's wine, selecting the right wine to go with your meal could prove to be quite a challenge!
The oysters were from Coromandel, and served on the half-shell. The white wine & shallot dressing had already been poured on the oysters. The half-shells were served on a bed of coarse salt. Unfortunately, the oysters had not been detached from the shell and my partner had to work quite hard at separating the molluscs from their shell. At that price, I would have expected the kitchen to do that for the client, so we wouldn't have to fight with our starters. This would have been particularly helpful as the oysters threatened more than once to land on the bed of salt on the plate!
The oysters themselves were quite tender. Coromandel oysters, unlike those from Bluff, tend to have a rather delicate flavour. The dressing somewhat overwhelmed the flavour of the oysters. My partner suggested that the dressing might have been better served in a small container for the customers to dip the oysters if they so chose.
This dish was very nicely presented. The terrine was made of rabbit meat in a jelly. The jelly was of perfect consistency, which was a pleasant surprise as most jellies used in terrines are either too soft, or so hard that one might as well chew on rubber. This was just right, and the meat in the terrine was very tender. The terrine was excellent, with a subtle taste that I wasn't able to identify, but which was quite pleasant. The carrot & cardamom custard was also quite good, and very light. I did not taste much cardamon in it, which is just as well, as I think the flavours would have competed too strongly with the terrine. The mushrooms were also quite nice, and offered a third texture. Unlike the terrine and the custard, the mushroom had a strong and bold flavour.
These three different flavours on the plate were not necessarily complementary. The mushrooms would have gone quite well with the terrine, but they overpowered it a little. Each element on the plate was quite good and despite the competition between each group of flavour, it was a dish I would gladly eat again.
This dish was also very appealing to the eye. The portions were generous, yet there was not so much food on the plate that it turned your appetite off! The venison was cooked properly, just a tad on the rare side of medium-rare. The cabbage and juniper confit was tender, and supported the venison well, it was not overpowered. The parsnip was subtle, yet held the other flavours on its own. It was quite soft, however, almost the texture of soft baby food. I might have kept the purée a bit more rustic to go with the venison. The potato was small, although more wasn't required. My potato was a bit on the dry side, but not enough to make a big difference.
My venison was extremely tender, almost melting in my mouth. For some reason, my partner's turned out to be a bit tough and very stringey.
This French Burgundy was very nice. Woody, with complex tastes of spices and sweetness. It went with the venison very well.
It had been several years since I had enjoyed a French wine, having embraced kiwi wines since my arrival here. Having this Bourgogne brought the point home that New Zealand red wines have a character all of their own. Kiwi wines are very good, and very different from French wines. Perhaps I will return to French wines more often now, thanks to this Bourgogne.
Graham is a Port that can be counted on to deliver an enjoyable finish to any dinner. This 20 Year Old Tawny delivered, with hints of almonds, licorice, orange, and brown sugar. It was smooth on the tongue, with a long after taste. Definitely not something to gulp down! Ok, so $20/glass is a bit extravagant, but it was most definitely worth it.
This did not begin particularly well... We arrived at approximately 8:45pm. The man at the reception informed us that we could not be seated, but that we could have tapas in the outside bar. It was very cold and windy, and we hadn't travelled 3 hours to have tapas... We hadn't made reservations, because two weeks earlier, in an email exchange with the Matterhorn, I was informed that they do not take reservations. I was further informed that the kitchen was opened "until late", so that it would not be a problem for us to come by, we'd have at most 30 or 45 minutes to wait.
We were obviously quite disappointed by having been told that we couldn't be seated. We explained the situation to the man, and he finally agreed, quite ungraciously, to seat us. We were seated at the very first table on the left when you go into the restaurant. This seemed to us to be one of the worst tables in the place, right beside the utility bench for wait staff to collect menus and clean utensils. It is also on the path between the kitchen and the main dining area, and is right next to the corridor leading to the cash register and the outside door. My partner sat on the bench seat along the wall, I parked my wheelchair on the other side of the table. I was kicked in the wheels no less than ten times during the evening, 4 of them by staff, the rest by other patrons.
As we were seated, the guy who "welcomed" us informed us that he would have to inform the other people waiting for this table that they were going to miss out. This seemed like information we did not need to know about, and made us feel like we were not welcomed at all. My partner and I wondered why that might be. Of course, it could have been that they were genuinely unable to seat us - the place *was* quite busy. But considering that several people came in after us and were seated for dinner, it seems unlikely. My next thought was that we weren't "the beautiful kind", not the right kind of people for the restaurant. My partner thought otherwise. She suggested it was the wheelchair. She might well have been right considering the accessibility level of the place.
We were glad that our waiter was quite pleasant. He was available without hovering.
At one point about 2/3rd into our evening, the music was louder than it had been when we arrived, and it sounded like a stuck damaged CD, jumping back to the same spot over and over and over. After approximately 15 minutes of this, I flagged a staff and indicated there might be a problem with their CD. I was informed there was a live DJ! Well, if that's the "in" thing with DJ'ing nowadays, I must be really getting old... This went on almost as is until we left.
I must admit, met disapointment on that topic. I had specifically contacted the restaurants a few weeks before going and asked about accessibility. I was assured it would not be a problem. Well... I could not call the Matterhorn accessible, but I could assign it the label "usable".
It begins at the entrance. Long and dark corridor, approximately 10 meters long. Someone with a visual impairment would probably have trouble with such low-light levels. At the end of this corridor is a set of double swinging doors. Each panel is wide enough to let a wheelchair through, although only just. But as there are no stable handholds and the doors are quite heavy, it is not possible for a wheelchair user to manage these doors independently.
After the long dark corridor is a dark space with no obvious purpose, followed by another set of doors. Then, a long, narrow and dark, although gently sloped, ramp. Barely wide enough to have a wheelchair and someone walking being able to pass one another. The person standing has to flaten themselves against the wall and turn their feet so they are paralel to the wall. Not particularly useful. There is no handrail along the ramp - someone unsteady on their feet, using a cane or crutches, would likely have problems going up it.
Then, there is the dining room. The tables are mostly along the walls with benches on one side and chairs on the other. It is also very dark in the dining room. Each table is illuminated by a wee lone oil lamp. This gives very little light, and it is flickering. The lamp must remain in the centre of the table if everyone at the table hopes to be able to see what's on their plate. A little more light would have been appropriate and helpful.
There is a cocktail bar, where I was told in an email we would be welcome to await a table. Except that this bar is long and narrow. The bar itself is too high, someone in a wheelchair would be well below the bar and unable to reach the top. Someone walking has the benefit of sitting on high stools. But there is not enough space between the wall and the stools when people are sitting on them for a wheelchair user to move around.
There also is a tapas bar, which is an outside area, which doubles as a smoking area for patrons who are so inclined. The door to the tapas outdoor bar area is too narrow to let a wheelchair through. It looked like it might be a double paned door and if both panes were opened, then a wheelchair could go through, but it was unclear if this is indeed the case. In any case, there are so many tables in that area that it would be very difficult for anyone in a wheelchair to navigate that space.
Finally, the toilets... I asked where the toilets were. The staff pointed me down the ramp and to the left. So I went down the ramp and looked to the left. The only door was the women's toilets. I went back up the ramp and asked for confirmation that the only accessible toilet is in the women's toilets. This was confirmed. I went back down the ramp again, and went in the women's loo as a woman was coming out, telling me "wrong one matey". I quickly explained I had no choice as this is the only accessible toilet. She did not appear best pleased. I was not impressed. The doors make it very hard to get in by yourself. The main door to the toilet area opens inside, and the door to the accessible stall opens outside. Both doors are so close to one another that it is not possible to get in and hold both doors open by yourself, and there is not enough space between the doors for a wheelchair to be located in that space when trying to open one door after another. However, once inside the accessible stall, things are much better. Plenty of floor space to turn around. Handrails that are the right shape, height and location. Proper hand basin. Of course, there is the ubiquituous and expected toilet paper dispenser nested in the inside of the handrails... When I pointed out to our waiter after my "adventure" that it wasn't really appropriate to have the only accessible toilet in the women's toilet, he asked "why, did you get scared?", in a tone that felt somewhat patronising. No, I was not scared, but it was embarassing, and I suspect that women wishing to use the toilet at the same time I was in there would have thought it embarassing as well. At the very least, they should put the ISA on the door to indicate this is where the accessible toilet is.
Despite all the hiccups, we had quite an enjoyable evening. The food was good, the presentation excellent. We would probably go back to the Matterhorn, but certainly not on a Saturday evening.
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Food is the most primitive form of comfort. Sheila Graham
It is many moons since since I went to the Matterhorn. Back in the sixties blonde leggy Swiss Suzy introduced Wellingtonians to the smogasbord and her delicious salads and decent coffee. Your detailed description took me back there so easily. There was a large picture of the Matterhorn near where you were sitting.
Congrats on your blog award...that's how I found you.. i live in NSW now, but hope to visit Wgtn again.
Comment by: Bobbi - September 7th, 2010 @ 20:18